The first UK exhibition dedicated to the work of French couturière Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel opened at the V&A in London on 16 September and charts the evolution of her iconic design style and the establishment of the House of CHANEL, from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910 to the showing of her final collection in 1971.

Gabrielle Chanel, 31 rue Cambon, Paris, 1937 Photo: Roger Schall/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

Featuring over 200 looks seen together for the first time, as well as accessories, perfumes and jewellery, the exhibition explores Chanel’s pioneering approach to fashion design, which paved the way for a new elegance and continues to influence the way women dress today.

Model Marion Morehouse wearing a black crepe romain bolero dress with fringed and paillette embroidered skirt by Chanel. Photo by Edward Steichen, published in Vogue US, 1926 Edward Steichen/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

Based upon the Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition organised by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, the exhibition has been re-imagined by the V&A. It features rarely seen pieces from the V&A’s collection, alongside looks from Palais Galliera and the Patrimoine de CHANEL, the heritage collections of the fashion House in Paris.

Dorothy + Little Bara priest, Paris (Vogue) © 1960 William Klein

Highlights include one of the earliest surviving Chanel garments from 1916; original costumes designed by Chanel for the Ballets Russes production of Le Train Bleu in 1924; outfits created for Hollywood stars Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich; an early example of Chanel's ground-breaking evening trousers and ensembles from Chanel’s final collection of 1971.

Marilyn Monroe applying Chanel N°5 at the Ambassador Hotel, New York, 24 March 1955. Photograph by Ed Feingersh. ©Ed Feingersh/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

Chanel designed first and foremost for herself. By creating clothes fit for an independent and active lifestyle, she anticipated the needs and wants of the modern woman. Through ten themed sections, the exhibition explores Chanel’s innovative approach to fabric, silhouette and construction, and examines how she drafted a new framework for fashion in the twentieth century.

Lithograph of CHANEL No.5 fragrance by Sem (Georges Gouarsat, dit) published in The New York Times, 16 December 1924, Musée Carnavalet, Histoire de Paris ©Paris Musées/Musée Carnavalet – Histoire de Paris

Showcasing a stunning array of some of Chanel’s most notable designs from her sixty years in fashion, the exhibition analyses her professional career, the emergence and the development of her style, and her contribution to the history of fashion. The exhibition also highlights Chanel’s British inspirations, such as her adoption of tweed, partnerships with British textile firms and textile factory in Huddersfield.

Gabrielle Chanel, Dress and Jacket Suit Spring/Summer 1926 Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris © CHANEL / Photo: Nicholas Alan Cope

Tristram Hunt, Director of the V&A, said: “As one of the most successful fashion houses in existence, CHANEL owes much to the templates first laid down by its founder Gabrielle Chanel, over a century ago. We are delighted to be partnering with CHANEL and the Palais Galliera on this exhibition, which provides us with the opportunity to explore the origins and elements of this enduring style and to display little-known historic Chanel garments from the V&A collection.” 

Gabrielle Chanel, Dress 1935 © Palais Galliera, Paris / Photo: Nicholas Alan Cope / Gift of the heirs of Mr Henry Viguier

The Victoria and Albert Museum, London (V&A) is the world’s leading museum of art, design and performance with collections unrivalled in their scope and diversity, spanning 5000 years of human creativity. It was established in 1852 to make works of art available to all and to inspire British designers and manufacturers.

Lydia Sokolova, English dancer and choreographer Anton Dolin, Bronislava Nijinska and Leon Woizikowsky after the first performance of 'Le Train Bleu' in Britain, at the Coliseum Theatre, London, 1924. Photo: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London. © Sasha/courtesy Getty Images

Bruno Pavlovsky, President of CHANEL SAS and President of CHANEL Fashion, said: “We are happy and honored that the first exhibition dedicated to Gabrielle Chanel to be held in the UK, will be presented at the V&A, one of the most prestigious museums in the world. Gabrielle Chanel was a legend in her own lifetime. This exhibition will analyze her contribution to fashion and her radical vision of a style that created modernity and reflected the aspirations of women and the evolution of their place in society."

Gabrielle Chanel, Marinière Blouse Spring/Summer 1916 Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris © CHANEL / Photo: Nicholas Alan Cope

Janet Redler, Managing Director of Janet Redler Travel, added: “This landmark exhibition looking at the life and work of one of the world’s most famous fashion designers is sure to be popular and should be on everyone’s to-do list in London over the next five months. Coco Chanel is a 20th century icon who continues to influence what we wear today and this exhibition is a wonderful opportunity to discover more about her legacy.”

Gabrielle Chanel, Hat 1917 Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris © CHANEL / Photo: Nicholas Alan Cope

The exhibition Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto runs from 16 September 2023 to 25 February 2024 and is presented in partnership with Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées.

If you and your group would like to enjoy a tailor-made tour of London or the United Kingdom, including a visit to this ground-breaking exhibition, please do contact our friendly team today.

Credit for all photos: Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 16 September 2023 – 25 February 2024. Presented in partnership with Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées. With the support of CHANEL.